Unit of competency Outline

Date retreived
22/07/2026 10:18 AM AWST

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Apply single pitch lead climbing skills on natural surfaces

Apply single pitch lead climbing skills on natural surfaces

Unit of competency
National Code
SISOCLN405A
State Code
D6303
TGA Status
Replaced
DTWD Status
Transition (Replaced)
Current Release Number
2.00
Current Release Date
28/11/2011
View on TGA
State Implementation and Classification
Approved Date
15/10/2014
Field of Education
092101 - Sport And Recreation Activities
Original Release Date
15/10/2014
Nominal Hours
20
Description
This unit describes the performance outcomes, skills and knowledge required to apply lead climbing skills to single pitch routes on natural surfaces. This unit also focuses on the application of second climbing and belaying skills suitable for single pitch lead climbing. It does not include the competencies required to instruct or guide others.
Notes
Elements and Performance Criteria
1. Plan for the climbing activity.
  • 1.1. Identify and plan food and water requirements according to principles of nutrition and the duration of the activity.
  • 1.2. Identify and select an appropriate activity site according to relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures.
  • 1.3. Identify associated hazards and procedures to minimise risks to climber and belayer on single pitch natural surfaces.
  • 1.4. Access relevantsources to interpret detailed weather and environmental information to determine activity plan.
  • 1.5. Establish a suitable communication system to use while climbing and belaying with other participants.
  • 1.6. Consider contingency plans in the case of unforeseen circumstances.
2. Select a route for the climb.
  • 2.1 Identify suitable access to and egress from the climbing site, according to relevant legislation.
  • 2.2 Select a suitable route for the climb and inspect the position and quality of features according to the capabilities of the climbing party.
  • 2.3 Interpret a route description for the climb.
  • 2.4 Identify and communicate route features, hazards and belay stations with climbing party members.
  • 2.5 Determine the potential need of artificial or natural protection required for the safe ascent of the route.
3. Select and utilise equipment.
  • 3.1. Select and use equipment according to manufacturer's specifications, according to contextual issues.
  • 3.2. Adjust and fit equipment to ensure personal comfort and safety.
  • 3.3. Complete all necessary personal and equipment safety checks, according to organisational policies and procedures, prior to commencement.
  • 3.4. Demonstrate attachment to a suitable belay system at bottom of pitch, in accordance with manufacturer's specifications, and apply correct rope handling and knot tying techniques.
  • 3.5. Apply safety procedures at the top and bottom of climbing site.
4. Demonstrate climbing techniques.
  • 4.1. Display correct posture and fluent climbing techniques suitable to features and possible holds.
  • 4.2. Maintain effective communication between climber and belayer throughout climb.
  • 4.3. Locate and evaluate the main features of the climb whilst climbing.
  • 4.4. Apply safe and correct climbing techniques to minimise injury in the event of a fall or rock fall.
  • 4.5. Locate and utilise rest positions to reduce fatigue.
  • 4.6. Negotiate obstacles and avoid or remove hazards to climb in a controlled manner.
  • 4.7. Use equipment in a manner that minimises damage to the environment.
5. Ascend a single pitch route as a second climber.
  • 5.1. Demonstrate use of belaying system to maximise climber safety at all times.
  • 5.2. Remove artificial protection in a manner which minimises damage to the equipment and environment, with and without the use of a nut tool.
  • 5.3. Use slings to optimise a placement and to minimise equipment loss or damage
6. Ascend a single pitch route as a lead climber.
  • 6.1. Set up anchors and belay system safely and efficiently.
  • 6.2. Select and use suitable natural, fixed or artificial protection for the chosen climb and rack protection so that it is accessible during the climb.
  • 6.3. Place protection periodically throughout the climb to reduce fall distance, after consideration of the possible direction and magnitude of force during a fall and the second's ability and safety.
  • 6.4. Apply correct techniques to minimise rope drag, displacement of artificial protection and injury in the event of a fall.
  • 6.5. Retreat from pitches both greater than and less than 25m in length.
  • 6.6. Select solid and secure anchors at the top of the pitch, or place artificial protection.
  • 6.7. Establish a belay system at the top of the pitch which maximises climber and belayer safety at all times.
7. Demonstrate belaying technique.
  • 7.1. Establish belaying position by moving body in relation to chosen belay device that allows effective use of belay system.
  • 7.2. Demonstrate a safe and efficient escape from belay system.
  • 7.3. Perform all safety checks according to organisational policies and procedures to ensure belayer safety in the event of a climber fall or rockfall.
  • 7.4. Maintain rope tension to ensure fall distance is minimised whilst not restricting climber movement.
  • 7.5. Monitor climber progress constantly and respond appropriately to climber calls.
  • 7.6. Arrest falls promptly using technique suitable to the belaying device and situation.
8. Evaluate climbing activity.
  • 8.1. Evaluate relevant aspects of lead climbing and belaying.
  • 8.2. Identify improvements for future second and lead climbing activities.
The range statement relates to the unit of competency as a whole. It allows for different work environments and situations that may affect performance. Bold italicised wording, if used in the performance criteria, is detailed below. Essential operating conditions that may be present with training and assessment (depending on the work situation, needs of the candidate, accessibility of the item, and local industry and regional contexts) may also be included.
Food and water requirements may include:
range of foods:
perishability
packaging
storage.
Principles of nutrition may include:
food groups
dietary guidelines.
Relevant legislation may include:
occupational health and safety
permits or permission for access
environmental regulations.
Organisational policies and procedures may include:
operating procedures and company or enterprise policies
occupational health and safety
use and maintenance of equipment
communication protocols
emergency procedures
code of ethics.
Hazards may include:
temperature extremes
slippery or unstable terrain
dangerous animals and insects
stinging trees and nettles
dense vegetation
group management hazards.
Risks may include:
hypothermia
heat exhaustion
injuries
exhaustion
lost party or party member
equipment failure.
Natural surfaces may include:
cliffs
boulders.
Relevant sources may include:
Bureau of Meteorology
media
land managers or agencies
local knowledge.
Weather and environmental information may include:
satellite images
daily and weekly forecasts
maximum and minimum temperatures
weather warnings
event warnings
river levels
synoptic charts
high and low tide predictions.
Communication system may include:
calls
radio
hand signals
whistles.
Contingency plans may include:
poor communication conditions
injuries
escape or retreat options
off route possibilities.
Unforeseen circumstances may include:
equipment failure
change of route
unresolvable obstacle or hazard
dramatic change of weather
climber or belayer injury.
Features may include:
aretes
chimneys
corners
cracks
edges
flakes
jugs
ledges
overhangs.
Capabilities may include:
body weight ratio
strength
stamina
flexibility
balance
mental perceptions.
Route description may include:
verbal
written.
Equipment may include:
helmets
karabiners
harnesses
climbing shoes
belay device
chalk and calk bag
tapes and slings
ropes and cord.
nuts
spring loaded caming devices
quick draws
hexes
tut tool
Contextual issues may include:
weather conditions, including times
season
transport
location
trip distance and duration
group objectives
group size.
Safety checks may include:
A - anchors - secure and suitable to application
B - buckles - locked as per manufacturers recommendations
C - connectors - locked, secured and orientated
D - devices - threaded correctly and secured
E - everything else including end of rope knots, friction hitches, belayer ready, helmet chin strap, clothing, jewellery and hair secured
F - friend - cross check.
Belay system may include:
top belay
bottom belay
single rope
double rope.
Knot tying may include:
figure eight
Bowline.
Climbing techniques may include:
bridging
dynamic movement, such as dead pointing
heel hooks
jamming
lay backing
layaways and side pulls
mantle
pinch grips
smearing
underclings.
crimping
chimneying.
Rest positions may include:
edge to lean against
ledge to lean against.
No hands rest.
Obstacles may include:
ledges
overhangs
squeezes
traverses
vegetation.
Anchors may include:
multi-directional
uni-directional
self-equalising.
Protection may include:
artificial
fixed
natural.
Belaying position may include:
top of the pitch
bottom of the pitch.
Belay device may include:
plate device
tube device
auto locking device.
hitch such as munter or Italian.
Belayer safety may include:
wearing of helmets
attaching to safety ropes
standing out of direct line of rock or gear fall.
Relevant aspects may include:
objectives
planning process
activity site
weather
equipment selection
clothing selection
food selection
instructional content
instructional technique
assessment technique
group feedback
directing techniques
rescue techniques employed.
The evidence guide provides advice on assessment and must be read in conjunction with the performance criteria, required skills and knowledge, range statement and the Assessment Guidelines for the Training Package.
Overview of assessment

Critical aspects for assessment and evidence required to demonstrate competency in this unit
Evidence of the following is essential:
applies relevant processes to plan for lead climbing activity and describes suitable route to take
selects and fits equipment independently and carries out safety checks to ensure effective working order
places protection at sufficient distances apart to reduce the distance of climber fall and removes and safely carries protection during second climbing
communicates effectively to monitor progress when belaying and to organise climbing group at belay stations safely and efficiently
negotiates obstacles and hazards during lead climbing, and adapts quickly to problems or issues that may arise to ensure safety of self and other participants
evaluates and reflects on own lead climbing and belaying performance to identify strengths, weaknesses and areas for improvement.
Context of and specific resources for assessment
Assessment must ensure participation in multiple lead climbing and belaying activities on single pitch natural surfaces to demonstrate competence and consistency of performance.
Assessment must also ensure access to:
resources and information regarding lead climbing and belaying, to accurately plan for the activity
suitable natural single pitch climbing sites with obstacles and features that allow participant to demonstrate lead climbing skills and belaying
other climbing participants, to assist with belaying and second climbing
equipment such as harnesses, helmets, belay devices, ropes, protection, nut tools, gloves, karabiners, climbing shoes and first aid equipment.
Method of assessment
A range of assessment methods should be used to assess practical skills and knowledge. The following examples are appropriate for this unit:
oral or written questioning to assess knowledge of relevant legislation and organisational policies and procedures to enable safe conduct of all climbing activities
observation of safe participation and demonstration of lead climbing skills, such as placing protection periodically and communicating with belayer to inform of progress
observation of dealing with contingencies, such as equipment failure or change in weather
third-party reports from a supervisor detailing performance.
Holistic assessment with other units relevant to the industry sector, workplace and job role is recommended, for example:
SISOVTR301A Perform vertical rescues
SISOCLN303A Establish belays for climbing on natural surfaces.
Replaced By
State Code National Code Title Type
OBF74 SISOCLM003 Lead climb single pitches, natural surfaces Unit of competency